Denim Worth Breaking In
The jeans in the catalog, and what each one is actually for.
Denim is the one category where the expensive version is objectively better made and the cheap version is objectively good enough. Both statements are true at once, and which one matters depends entirely on whether you are going to wear the same pair three hundred times.
If you are, raw selvedge repays every dollar — the fabric moves to your body, the fades are yours, and a good pair outlives the decade. If you are not, buy the well-cut washed pair and put the difference into a coat.
How to choose
- Fit before fabric. A perfect denim in the wrong cut is a hanger ornament.
- Raw denim runs tight for the first month and then settles roughly a half-size. Size for the settled fit, not the first day.
- Selvedge is a construction detail, not a quality guarantee. Plenty of mediocre denim has a red line.
The list
22 pieces, $4,833 if you bought all of it — which you should not. Every one links to its own page with the fit built around it.
Sun + StonePipeline Light-Wash Loose-Fit Pull-On Jeans$33
GUESSG16 Straight-Leg Jeans$43
GUESSAngels Slim-Fit Straight Jeans$59
Dickies877 Denim Work Pant$65
DickiesLoose Straight Double Knee Jeans$65
DickiesSelvedge Double Knee Denim Jeans$98
RailsNash Straight – Rinse Wash$168
Japan BlueJMJE1200 12oz Selvedge – Slim Straight$195
Studio D'ArtisanSD-1101 "Ishikawadai" Selvedge – Regular Straight$210
MomotaroMMJB0101 "Classic" Selvedge – Regular Straight$235
MomotaroMMJZ1300 "Standard" Black Selvedge – Slim Tapered$235
Fullcount1103 "Clean Straight" Selvedge$240
Samurai JeansS0511XX-II 15oz "Otokogi" – Slim Tapered$255
Samurai JeansS511XX-II 19oz Selvedge – Slim Tapered$260
LividBarnes Japan Dawn$278°$231 via Garmentory
The Flat HeadFN-8005 18oz Selvedge – Regular Straight$280
LividKeri Japan Gravel$289°$172 via Garmentory
Levi's Vintage Clothing1944 501 Original Selvedge$295
Levi's Vintage Clothing1954 501 Original Selvedge$295
RRLSlim Fit Jean – Once Washed$295
RRLStraight Fit Selvedge Jean – East/West Rinse Wash$395
Kenzo'KENZO Signature' Straight Fit Jeans in Japanese Denim$545Drawn from The Rack (257 pieces) and refreshed whenever the catalog is. Set a budget and let the builder use it →